Categories
ajoBlog GLOCK

Installing Ameriglo Rear & Front Sight on Glock 45 MOS

Here’s a quick guide on how to install rear and front sights from Ameriglo using basic tools you probably have access to already. Fair warning – I don’t use a sight pusher. I have one – it’s just not necessary.

GEAR – what you’ll need…

  • Front and Rear sights – in this case, the Ameriglo GL-291 kit, which comes with a front sight install tool.
  • Wooden dowel and smaller hammer.
  • Loctite blue / non-permanent.
  • A vise.
  • Soft grips or towel, 91% isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, paper towel, etc.

Why GL-291 set?

I install metal “irons” as backup sights in case the optic goes out, fails, breaks, etc. Technically, I probably don’t need any sights out to 15 meters or so for point shooting, but they’re nice to have, right?

Why the i-Dot Pro single dot rear, with orange front? It’s easier to line up at night, and the orange pops a bit more. I use these on all my pistols.

AMERIGLO® Optic Compatible sets provide a precise, elevated co-witness sight picture for slide-mounted red dot optics and serve as reliable back-up sights.

The GL-291 is listed as “optic compatible” but aren’t true co-witness for the SRO with stock GLOCK MOS adapter plate.

What is co-witness?

It’s when you see through the iron sighs, and your dot (from the optic) lands on the front sight – you see both at the same time.

I don’t like that – makes the optic (my primary aiming solution) too cluttered. Hence the GL-291’s – they sit right below the optic, but are still usable.

STEP 0 – Clear & check, and field strip the GLOCK pistol.

As always, gun safety is the number one priority. Clear the pistol by unloading, checking, and disassembling it into the lower receiver, slide, barrel, and spring.

Only work with the slide for this install, and never keep live ammo in the work area. The basics.

It’s handy to work on top of a paper towel – easier to see the screws, and helps with any oil or Loctite spills.

We’ll use the vise for the rear removal and install, but for the front sight, your bench is fine as it doesn’t require much force. For optics install, the bench is easier for me – see the last post.

STEP 1 – Remove front and rear GLOCK sights.

Use the front sight install tool to unscrew the front sight from the slide. The GLOCK front sigh is polymer, so you’ll feel some grip by the screw, but it should come out easily. You’ll likely not re-install the stock sight, so dispose of it how you want.

Place the slide in the vise, and use a wooden dowel and light hammer work to remove the rear sight, left-to-right.

It comes out very easily, and you may experience the metal clip popping loose from the polymer sight.

STEP 2 – Clean and Prep the Slide

I use the isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip to prep the rear and front sight locations, letting it dry. Then, prep the rear channel with a dab of Loctite. Spread with another q-tip.

At this point, depending on your vise, soft grips (the blue rubber stuff), you may want to change to a thick towel for a better grip on the slide. See next picture below.

STEP 3 – Install the Rear Sight

Use the wooden dowel and hammer to tap the sight into place, right-to-left. You may need to use some force to get it in the channel – go easy, and it’ll happen. Above, I’ve swapped for a utility towel buffering the slide in the vise.

Once in, center the sight, and remove from vise to check, and adjust as needed.

Should be pretty easy. And, in this case, these sights are for backup purposes in case the optic fails, so I don’t need bullseye 1/2 MOA at 100 meter precision… think combat / self defense distances of 15 meters and in.

STEP 4 – Install the Front Sight

Dab a bit of Loctite on the screw, hold on to the front sight, and install the screw hand tight. Check for alignment – as in – is the front sight blade straight with the slide.

I hold the slide in my left hand, with my left index finger putting pressure on the front sigh blade which using my right hand to tighten the screw. Don’t over torque it…

Both sights are installed. Clean up, let the Loctite set a bit, and re-assemble the slide, barrel, etc. and off you go!

Take it to the range if you want to check zero – but if you’ve been careful, you’re already good to go. Ameriglo knows their business.

Categories
ajoBlog GLOCK

Installing Trijicon SRO on a Glock 45 MOS

Here’s a quick guide on how to install a Trijicon SRO on a GLOCK 45 MOS. You could follow this same guide for any GLOCK MOS model, and would work well for the RMR as well.

I follow the GLOCK recommended procedure, with a few tweaks, and different screws (stronger!).

GEAR – what you’ll need…

  • GLOCK 45 Pistol, unloaded and field stripped.
  • Trijicon SRO
  • MOS Adapter Plate # 2
  • Screw driver with both T10 Torx and T15 Torx bits.
  • For adapter plate – QTY 2 – M3 x 6mm (o.5 mm x 6 mm) Torx plus flat head screw. Highly recommend McMaster-Carr, and they describe them as Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Torx Flat Head Screws, M3 x 0.50 mm Thread Size, 6 mm Long. Tensile strength of 140,000 psi.
  • For SRO – QTY 2 – 6/32 x 3/8 Torx plus flat head screw. Same source – head to McMaster-Carr. Tensile strength of 140,000 psi.
  • Loctite blue / non-permanent.
  • CLP Lubricant / Cleaner

On screws – I opt to get a hold of the strongest fastener I can – hence the McMaster-Carr sourced Torx screws with 140,000 psi tensile strength.

I’m not sure what the supplied screws are, but it’s easy to get the strongest alternative available. Same with the screws that come with an SRO – not sure of the specs.

That being said – I’ve run the supplied screws from GLOCK on a stock adapter plate (different gun) for 10,000+ rounds with no issue. Same with screws from Trijicon. So you do you… McMaster-Carr is 10 minutes away, so I go there!

STEP 0 – Clear & check, and field strip the GLOCK pistol.

As always, gun safety is the number one priority. Clear the pistol by unloading, checking, and disassembling it into the lower receiver, slide, barrel, and spring.

Only work with the slide for this install, and never keep live ammo in the work area. The basics.

It’s handy to work on top of a paper towel – easier to see the screws, and helps with any oil or Loctite spills.

You could put the slide with some soft grippers in a vise – which I do when I install iron sights. For optics install, the bench is easier for me.

STEP 1 – Remove Cover Plate

Use the T10 Torx bit to remove the retaining screws in the cover plate that GLOCK installs on all the MOS versions. Counter-clockwise… 😂

You can / should retain the cover plate and screws for the future if you ever remove the optic, as GLOCK recommends you only shoot the pistol with the cover plate installed, or with an optic.

Do not use the cover plate screws to install the adapter plate or optic!

STEP 2 – Clean and Prep the Surface, Adapter Plate, Screws

Clean both the area below the cover plate, as well as the adapter plate using CLP. Both areas get a light coat of lubricant before install.

I also lightly lubricate the underside of the SRO before installing to help with moisture – especially on an EDC gun.

Prep the screws by applying a small dab of Loctite for better holding power. I use the blue / removable version.

Loctite, a slow moving polymer, helps keep the screw in place under stress, and won’t let it back out.

STEP 3 – Install the GLOCK adapter plate

Use the T10 Torx bit to install the M3 screws for the adapter plate.

Don’t over tighten. Hand tight is more the plenty. Just like a car tire change, check each screw against the other.

WARNING! Adapter Plate Rant…

On adapter plates – I’ve seen a lot of hype about how the stock adapter plates (from GLOCK) are no good, and how there are “better” aftermarket plates available. Often from shooters who’ve never even used the stock plates…🤦‍♂️

And I thought so too… until I used one from the company that starts with CH… which promptly broke mid-stage in a USPSA match. Not fun!

Their design, while good, turned out to be too weak. And, I used their V3, and now they’re on a v4… 🤷‍♂️

When I wrote to them about a replacement, all I got was a 10% coupon off for the newest version.

No, I don't think I will - Meming Wiki

That gun (a GLOCK 34) got a stock adapter plate installed, as did my carry gun (a GLOCK 19 MOS). No more after-market junk… No more instagram shooters with Gucci setups.

And, don’t talk to me about gaps between the SRO and the slide, how thick the stock adapter plates are, yada yada, or the need to get your slide custom milled…

You’re working on a $500 gun. Why on earth would you mill the slide for $200, and have to re-coat it with something that isn’t nDLC?

If you have evidence of where the GLOCK stock plates don’t work or have broken, I’d love to see it… And no, your over-torqued screws don’t count! 😂

Same goes for screws – the screws that were supplied with the adapter plate from CH… didn’t fit! I say that again – the supplied screws DID NOT FIT THEIR OWN adapter plate. Rant over!

STEP 4 – Install the SRO

Same process as with the adapter plate – don’t over tighten. You’ll need to switch to the T15 bit for the 6/32 screws.

A little dab of Loctite, and you’re good. Check each screw against the other – are they both equally tight? If so, you’re good.

Wipe it down, and let that Loctite firm up a bit (a few hours) before you take it to the range to get it zeroed.

Good luck!